How To Install Pocket Replacement Windows

When Maddy Krauss and her husband, Paul Friedberg, first laid eyes on their 1897 Shingle-style habitation, they fell in love with its handcrafted turn-of-the-century construction, wide front porch, and massive entry-hall staircase. They were too delighted to find that many of the original architectural details were even so intact, including wood paneling, exquisite carvings, stained-glass windows, and an ornate cast-bronze fireplace.

The windows were another story. The originals had been swapped out a decade before for low-quality sash kits that were drafty, ugly, and completely inappropriate for the graceful Victorian-era home, This Quondam House Boob tube'southward fall 2007 project in Newton, Massachusetts. The solution: Telephone call in TOH general contractor Tom Silva and his crew to install energy-efficient replacements.

Because the existing window frames were sound and foursquare, Tom could apply insert replacement units—in this case, Andersen'southward Woodwright Insert Replacement Windows, vinyl-clad wood units fitted with energy-saving, low-east insulated glass. These fully assembled, fix-to-install windows skid right into the existing openings.

When the job was done, the business firm had beautiful new double-hungs that looked correct, worked smoothly, and gave Maddy and Paul one more thing to love virtually their erstwhile firm. Here's a look at how Tom fabricated the switch, with tips for choosing and installing replacement windows.

How to Install Replacement Windows

1. Window Replacement Parts

Illustration by Robert Hardin

Types of Replacement Windows

Unlike full-frame windows, which are designed for new construction, replacement windows are made to fit into existing window openings. They're available in dozens of standard sizes, from equally narrow as xi ½ inches to as wide as 68 inches, and come in wood, vinyl, fiberglass, vinyl-clad wood, and aluminum-clad wood.

There are three basic types of replacement windows: sash kits, insert replacements, and total-frame units. Sash-replacement kits—what Tom found on the Newton business firm—requite an old window frame new movable parts, including jamb liners and sash. The liners are attached to the side jambs of the window opening, then the sash are slipped in between.

For these to work, the existing window frame must be level and square. An insert replacement window consists of a fully assembled window in a set-to-install secondary frame. Sometimes called a pocket window, an insert replacement slips into the existing opening and is then fastened to the old side jambs. Because yous're adding new jambs and liners, the glass area will be slightly smaller than it was before.

Full-frame replacement windows are similar to inserts, except that they have a consummate frame that includes head jamb, side jambs, and sill. These are the only option when the old window frame, sill, or jambs are rotted. To install these, y'all must strip the window opening down to its rough framing, within and out.

ii. Measuring for Replacements

Photo by Russell Kaye

The near important step in the window-replacement procedure happens long before installation 24-hour interval. Information technology'south when yous measure the dimensions of the existing window frame to make sure y'all gild a replacement unit of measurement that'southward the correct size. Here'due south how to do it.

• Start by measuring the within width of the quondam window frame, jamb to jamb, in three places: across the top, middle, and lesser. Write down the smallest of the three measurements.
• Next, measure out the frame's top from the meridian of the sill to the underside of the caput jamb in three places: at the left jamb, in the middle, and at the right. Over again, record the smallest measurement.
• Check the squareness of the frame by measuring the diagonals from corner to corner. The two dimensions should be the same. If the frame is out of square by 1/four inch or so, don't worry; the replacement tin be shimmed to fit. Anything more may require adjustments to the frame. If the frame is so out of whack that a square replacement wouldn't look correct, you lot'll need a full-frame replacement.
• Finally, employ an angle-measuring tool to determine the slope of the sill; some replacements come with a selection of sill angles.

3. Take Out the Sash

Photo by Russell Kaye

• The first stride is to remove the old sash from the window frame. In almost cases, you'll need to pry off or unscrew the interior wooden stops to remove the lower sash. (If y'all're planning to reinstall the stops, do this job carefully; they break hands.)
• Side by side, have out the parting chaplet to free the upper sash. If your windows, like these, were previously fitted with sash-replacement kits, there won't exist any beads. Just press in on the jamb liners and pull the top of the sash forward.
• And then pivot one side of the sash upwards to costless it from the jamb liners.

4. Pry Off The Jamb Liners

Photo by Russell Kaye

• If the window frame was fitted with vinyl or aluminum jamb liners, use a flat bar to pry them free. In the instance of an original window, remove any remaining wooden stops from the window frame.
• Go out the interior and exterior casings intact.

5. Prep the Frame

Photo by Russell Kaye

• Scrape off all loose and blistered pigment and patch any holes or cracks with an outside-grade forest putty, such every bit the ones from Elmer's or Minwax.
• And then sand the jambs shine, and prime and paint the surfaces.

six. Remove the Sometime Sash Weights

Photo by Russell Kaye

• If the original sash weights are still in place, take this opportunity to remove them from their pockets and insulate behind the window frame.
• Unscrew the access console on each side jamb and pull out the weights.

7. Prep For Insulation

Photo by Russell Kaye

Tom likes polyurethane foam, because it's more constructive at blocking air than fiberglass insulation.

• Brand sure to apply just low-pressure, minimally expanding foam intended for windows and doors; anything else volition bow the frames and keep the sash from working.
• First, pull out whatever existing fiberglass in the weight pockets.
• Then bore three/8-inch-diameter holes, one well-nigh each end and one in the heart, down through the sill and up through the head jamb.

8. Spray in the Cream

Photograph past Russell Kaye

• Shoot the expanding foam into the holes until it begins to ooze out. (Tom is using a commercial organization, but y'all can do the same task with foam from a can, like Dow's Great Stuff.)
• Also spray foam into the sash-weight pockets in the side jambs. Permit the backlog to harden for at least 6 hours, then break or cut information technology off flush earlier replacing the sash-weight pocket panels.

9. Caulk the Opening

Photograph by Russell Kaye

• In preparation for installing the window, apply an elastomeric caulk to the exposed inner face of the exterior casings or to the bullheaded stops on the top and sides of the frame. Also utilise 2 continuous beads of caulk forth the windowsill.

ten. Install the Window

Photograph by Russell Kaye

• Working from inside the room, fix the bottom of the insert replacement onto the sill, and then tip information technology upwardly into the opening. Printing the window tight against the exterior casings or blind stops.

11. Spike Information technology Loosely

Photo by Russell Kaye

• Hold the window in place with ane 2-inch spiral driven loosely through the upper side jamb and into the framing. The screw should be in merely far plenty to let the window to operate.
• Close and lock the sash.

12. Shim every bit Necessary

Photo by Russell Kaye

• Adjust the unit past inserting shims under the sill and backside the side jambs until information technology is centered in the infinite and opens, closes, and locks smoothly.
• Measure out the window diagonally from corner to corner; the measurements should be the same. When the window is square, screw it in place through the predrilled holes.
• To avoid bowing the frame, slip a shim behind the jamb at each screw, then screw through the shim.
• Trim the shims affluent with a utility knife.

13. Caulk, Prime and Paint

Photo past Russell Kaye

• From the outside, mensurate the gaps betwixt the window frame and the casing. Fill gaps less than ane/4 inch broad with elastomeric caulk. Anything wider must first be stuffed with foam-rubber backer rod.
• On the inside, fill up any gaps around the window with minimally expanding foam.
• Finish upward by reinstalling the stops or adding new ones.
• And then prime and paint, or stain the interior of the window sash and frame.

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Tools

Source: https://www.thisoldhouse.com/windows/21016627/how-to-install-replacement-windows

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